Why, when small sea waves approach the inclined coast, foamy ridges form on them?

You see, in the lake, or where there is no current, the water is distributed in an even surface. At sea, when the movement is energetic, the wave splits into two parts. The lower layers of the wave begin to slow down due to the cause of friction against the bottom. This does not apply to the upper words, they continue to move at a constant speed, running ahead. But due to the deceleration of the lower layers of the wave, the upper part takes a very sharp angle. That is why, due to such a drop, the peaks break down and, as it were, form the so-called “foamy ridges”.

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